The Other Side of the Peninsula
Most visitors to Los Cabos spend their entire trip on the Sea of Cortez side — the calm turquoise water, the resort corridor, the marina. It's genuinely beautiful. But an hour north on Highway 19, the Baja peninsula flips entirely. The Pacific Ocean takes over: big rolling swells, wild undeveloped beaches, cardon cactus desert meeting the sea, and a stretch of coastline that feels nothing like the Corridor.
This is the setting for Todos Santos and its surrounding towns — a cluster of places that attract a completely different kind of traveler. Artists, surfers, organic farmers, expat writers, remote workers who found a desert oasis and didn't leave. The food scene here is as good as anything in Los Cabos, the art galleries are serious, and Playa Los Cerritos south of town is one of the most beginner-friendly surf beaches on the Baja coast.
Done well, the Pacific side is a natural complement to a Los Cabos resort trip — a day or two that adds texture to what can otherwise be a very resort-focused experience. This guide covers how to get there, what to do, and how to structure the visit whether you're going for a day or staying a night.
Distance: ~76 km (47 miles) from Cabo San Lucas; ~90 km from SJD airport. Drive time: about 1 hour from Cabo San Lucas, 1.5 hours from the airport. Highway 19 is a modern, paved, well-maintained four-lane toll highway for most of the route — the same standard as any major Mexican federal highway. The toll is cash only; bring Mexican pesos.
The drive itself is worth it. Desert mountains on one side, the Pacific on the other, cardon cacti the size of trees on the slopes. The road passes through the small town of El Pescadero about 15 minutes before Todos Santos. Drive during daylight, avoid wandering off the main highway at night, and have cash for petrol and any small purchases along the way.
Todos Santos — Baja's Pueblo Mágico
Todos Santos
Todos Santos is one of only two officially designated Pueblos Mágicos on the entire Baja California Peninsula — the Mexican government's recognition of towns with exceptional historic, cultural, and aesthetic character. It sits on a mesa above a fertile valley on the Pacific coast, equidistant between Los Cabos to the south and La Paz to the north. The town was founded as a Jesuit mission in 1723, flourished during the 19th-century sugar cane boom that built most of its beautiful colonial architecture, fell quiet after the cane industry collapsed, and was rediscovered — first by surfers in the 1980s, then by artists, then by the wider world. That layered history shows in the streets.
The historic downtown is compact and entirely walkable. Colonial buildings in deep terracotta, ochre, and turquoise line cobblestone streets draped with bougainvillea. The main plaza anchors the town, flanked by the 18th-century Misión Nuestra Señora del Pilar. Radiating out from the plaza, independent art galleries and studios along Calle Benito Juárez show work of a calibre that would be at home in any serious urban gallery — bronze sculptures, woven textiles, contemporary Mexican painting. There are no chain hotels here, no resort complex. The accommodation ranges from small boutique properties to eco-lodges outside of town near the beach.
Crucially, Todos Santos in 2026 has stayed true to its character. Despite growing visitor numbers and the occasional threat of large-scale development, the town has consistently resisted the mega-resort blueprint. The food scene is excellent — farm-to-table dining rooted in local organic produce and the Pacific's daily catch is a genuine reason to visit in its own right.
What to Do in Todos Santos
Walk the art district. The concentration of independent galleries and studios along Calle Benito Juárez and the surrounding blocks is the highest quality creative output in Baja California Sur. Allow an hour to wander without a specific destination — the discovery of a working sculptor's studio or an unexpected textile collection is the nature of the experience here. Galleries are generally open daily during high season, though hours vary.
The Misión Nuestra Señora del Pilar. The original mission was established in 1723; the current church reflects later rebuilding but retains the spare elegance of colonial Jesuit architecture. The plaza in front is a natural gathering point and the heart of the town's civic life.
Farm-to-table lunch. This is the undisputed farm-to-table capital of Baja California Sur. Jazamango, by Tijuana-born chef Javier Plascencia, has dining tables positioned directly beside the herb beds and fruit trees — the short distance between field and plate is the point. Hierbabuena is another outdoor garden restaurant where most of what arrives at the table was grown steps away. Agricole earned a Michelin Green Star for its commitment to sustainability and regional cuisine. Even the casual lunch spots here are operating at a quality level above most of what you'll find on the Corridor.
Sunset at The Green Room. About 15 minutes from downtown on the coast road near La Pastora beach, The Green Room is the undisputed best sunset spot on Baja's Pacific side — cocktails with your feet near the sand, sweeping Pacific views, the light doing extraordinary things at golden hour. An SUV or high-clearance vehicle is recommended for the bumpy access road. Make a reservation in advance during peak season.
Todos Santos' most famous building is a beautifully restored 19th-century hacienda with scarlet walls on the main street — and for decades, visitors have asked whether it inspired the Eagles' 1977 song. The band has been unambiguous: no, it did not. The song was written before the hotel adopted its current name, and the band members have repeatedly denied any connection. The myth has taken on a life of its own regardless, and the hotel is genuinely worth a visit as a piece of Baja history — its courtyard restaurant serves decent food and cold margaritas. Just go knowing what it is: a beautiful old building with a great story of its own, and a very effective piece of tourism mythology.
Playa Los Cerritos — The Pacific's Best Beginner Surf Beach
Playa Los Cerritos
About 15 minutes south of Todos Santos, near the small farming community of El Pescadero, Playa Los Cerritos is a crescent-shaped bay that solves a problem most Pacific-side beaches create — it's one of the very few beaches on this stretch of coast with waves gentle enough for beginners to surf and calm enough for cautious swimmers. The reason is its geography: a slight headland deflects the heaviest Pacific swells, and northwest swells wrap around the point to create consistent, manageable waves at all tides.
The beach is wide, golden, and backed by low dunes rather than development. There are beach chairs and umbrella rentals, a surf school operation on the beach, a handful of palapa restaurants serving cold drinks and fresh seafood, and the right conditions for a genuinely enjoyable afternoon without the overcrowding of Corridor beaches. Multiple surf schools operate here — boards can be rented, lessons booked, and the line-up is forgiving enough that a complete beginner can get on their feet within a 90-minute session.
A note on swimming: Cerritos is better suited for swimming than other Pacific beaches on this coast, but the Pacific is never entirely tame. Currents can strengthen during summer months and on windy days. Don't underestimate the ocean, don't swim alone, and pay attention to conditions when you arrive.
El Pescadero — The Quieter Alternative
El Pescadero sits about 12 km south of Todos Santos — a small agricultural town surrounded by fields of strawberries, mangoes, corn, and avocados that feed some of the farm-to-table restaurants in the region. It's more rural and less curated than Todos Santos, with a community feel that reflects both Mexican locals and the expat and nomad population that has quietly made this area home over the past decade.
The surf breaks north of Cerritos — at the Pescadero reef — are more powerful and better suited to intermediate and advanced surfers, with consistent A-frame peaks that see a fraction of the crowd of more developed breaks. The turtle conservation program run by Grupo Tortuguero Pescadero A.C. releases hatchlings on San Pedrito Beach and offers visitors the chance to participate — one of the more genuinely memorable wildlife experiences on the Baja coast.
The dining is worth a detour. Baja Beans Cafetería roasts local coffee beans and serves them in a relaxed outdoor patio. Coyote — a converted airstream caravan with neon lights and a desert setting — serves fresh seafood and funky cocktails. These are the kinds of places that exist because people who love them moved here, not because they were designed for visitors.
The Pacific Beaches — What to Know Before You Go
This needs to be said plainly, because it's the most common mistake visitors make on Baja's Pacific side. Most Pacific beaches here are not safe for swimming. The waves are powerful, the shorebreak is steep, and rip currents operate along much of the coastline. This includes Punta Lobos, Playa La Cachora, and the wide beach directly fronting Todos Santos town. They are spectacular for long walks, photography, and watching the ocean do impressive things. They are not for swimming or for letting children run toward the water unsupervised.
Playa Los Cerritos is the main exception — use it for swimming, supervised carefully. Punta Lobos, about 2 km south of Todos Santos, is excellent for watching local fishermen launch their pangas into the surf at dawn and for fresh seafood at the small restaurants where you can buy directly from the day's catch. A beautiful scene, but not a swimming beach.
⚠️ Pacific beach safety: Never turn your back on the Pacific Ocean here, even at the water's edge. Rogue waves and wash-back currents operate on these beaches year-round. Keep children well back from the waterline on surf beaches. At Cerritos specifically, currents can strengthen significantly during summer months and on windy days. When in doubt, watch the water for at least five minutes before entering.
Planning Your Visit
Day Trip vs. Overnight
A day trip from Los Cabos is entirely practical — depart by 9 AM, arrive in Todos Santos by 10:00, walk the galleries and town until noon, have a proper farm-to-table lunch, drive down to Cerritos for the afternoon, and return to Los Cabos by early evening. That's a full, satisfying day. An overnight stay changes the experience significantly: sunset at The Green Room, dinner at one of the serious restaurants, a quiet morning in the town before the day-trippers arrive, and the ability to explore the surrounding beaches at your own pace. Even one night makes Todos Santos feel like a destination rather than a stop.
Getting There
A rental car is the best option — it gives you the freedom to stop at Cerritos, explore El Pescadero, and time your return around sunset rather than a tour schedule. Highway 19 is straightforward to navigate. Have cash for the toll and for small purchases along the way. Guided day tours from Los Cabos handle all the driving and logistics, include hotel pickup, and are a sensible choice if you'd rather not drive or want a local guide's context on the town's history and galleries. The Viator tour above has 804 verified reviews and consistently strong ratings.
When to Go
November through April is the most comfortable time to visit — clear skies, dry weather, temperatures in the mid-70s°F (23–26°C), and the beginning of whale season in December. The Art Walk in San José del Cabo on Thursday evenings (November–June) pairs well with an early-week visit to Todos Santos if you want to combine Pacific and Sea of Cortez cultural experiences in a single trip. Summer months are hotter, more humid, and occasionally overcast, but Cerritos surf is excellent from June through October and the crowds are thinner.
🗓️ Quick seasonal guide: Best overall weather November–April. Best surf at Cerritos June–October (but consistent year-round). Pacific whale sightings from land December–April. Farm-to-table menus at their peak when local produce is in season — generally spring and early summer. The area is busiest and most energetic December through Easter; quieter and more local-feeling May through October.
💡 Practical tips before you go: Bring cash (pesos preferred) — many small restaurants, galleries, and surf operators don't take cards. An SUV or 4WD vehicle is recommended if you plan to visit The Green Room or any of the rougher beach access roads. Reef-safe sunscreen applies on the Pacific side too — be a good visitor. Download offline maps before leaving Los Cabos; cell service on Highway 19 is inconsistent. Don't plan a tight return schedule — unexpected galleries, an unplanned surf session, or a long farm lunch have a way of adjusting your timeline in the best possible way.
Ready to book your rental car for the drive, or need help building a full Pacific-side itinerary? Our team can help →